Lawn and Outdoor Water Use

When thinking of adding new plants to your yard, think native. Natives are better acclimated to our weather conditions, soil conditions, and wildlife.  

Below are some of the best resources for online plant databases for our area.

• Native Plant Society’s Williamson County chapter has a new county specific plant database: WilcoScape!!
• Aggie Horticulture provides a host of expertise on landscape plants, ornamentals, turfgrass, and gardens.
• Aggie Turf website has research on native turfgrasses.
• City of Austin’s Grow Green program includes a searchable database of native and adaptive plants, which includes pictures.
• The Williamson County Master Gardeners offer monthly “Green Thumbs Up” classes at local libraries and maintain a demonstration garden that visitors can explore for inspiration.
• Williamson County Native Plant Society holds monthly meetings that are open to the public, as well has a wealth of information on their website.
• The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center has a fantastic searchable database.
• Native American Seed Company is a great resource for native grass seeds, as well as wildflower seeds.

Are you interested in removing some of the grass (turf) from your yard and converting it to native plant beds?  Excellent idea!  

The City has a new rebate program to assist with the costs of the yard conversion within a parkway strip area.  Find details on the rebates page.    

The program requires pre-approval.

Are you interested in reducing your water use by removing your lawn and installing artificial turf?  The city doesn’t recommend that — there are just too many benefits to having a living yard, versus a plastic one.

Cons:

• Must be replaced periodically, with used artificial turf often going to landfills due to low availability and the cost of recycling solutions.  Life span is approximately 8-10 years.
• May contain chemicals of concern, such as carcinogens, VOCs, and PFAS.  Recycled tires are often used as the “infill” on turf installations.  
• Can generate microplastic contamination when rain carries the rubber infill to nearby water bodies.  
• May adversely impact soil health and groundwater infiltration.  Water runs off the property rather than soaking in due to the highly compacted soil under the artificial turf.
• Potential for pet waste buildup and odors; routine washing or spraying with water is necessary.
• Can increase stormwater runoff.
• Does not increase plant, animal, and insect biodiversity as natural landscapes can.  
• Increases urban heat island effects due to high surface temperatures, which may have negative impacts on recreational use, human health, and the health of nearby plants and trees.  Temperatures can reach up to 80 degrees higher than ambient air temperature.  Water may be needed to cool surfaces down before use.

Pros:

• Potential to reduce fertilizer and mower use, pesticide application, and related pollution.
• Can be a durable, low-maintenance surface for athletics and spaces with high foot traffic.

Do you water before a freeze is expected or not?   

Local plant experts say yes.  Water perennials and new trees before freezes to help insulate the plant.  The water fills up the soil and the soil temperatures will keep the plant roots warm.  Watering is not needed for turfgrass, as it’s dormant in winter and it’s not the growing season.

Keep water low when watering in winter.  Do not spray leaves, buds, or flowers (they don’t need the water anyway).  Just water the root zones.

• Williamson County AgriLife Extension Office gave a great Winter Storm Recovery presentation on assessing trees, perennials, and the irrigation system after a freeze.  Find the recorded webinar and other helpful information here.  
• Howard Garrett (aka The Dirt Doctor) has a very good article called Responding to Freeze Damage that focus’s on trees and woody plants.  Find that here. 

• • Don’t Cut Grass Too Short!  With the lawnmower set higher, the longer grass can help shade the ground, hold moisture longer and help to fight off heat.  Longer grass blades are also necessary in shadier spots, as a greater surface area allows for better photosynthesis, which means more energy and food for the plant!
  • Don’t cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade off at a time.
  • Ideal heights for grasses are:  St. Augustine grass 2.5-5″, Bermuda 1.5-4″, Zoysia (coarse-textured) 1.5-4″ and Buffalo 2″ to unmowed.
  • Reuse Grass Clippings; Leaving the grass clippings on the ground can serve as mulch and fertilizer all-in-one.  And it’s free!

• Use mulch wherever possible around trees, in shrub beds, even potted plants, mulching to a depth of 3-6″. 
• You do not want to mulch to be mounded next to the trunk of the plant, often called “volcano mulching.”  It should be more saucer shaped so water will not run off or away from the plant.  A flat mat of mulch allows the water to sink in.
• Since mulch breaks down, it should be applied annually.  
• City of Round Rock water customers can pick up free mulch at our Brush Recycling Center.  Be sure to take a copy of your water bill with you when you go!
• Mulch also prevents weed growth, retains water, and insulates the soil and plant during cooler months.
• See our video about proper use of mulch.

• Overseeding with rye, or other cool season grass, is discouraged, due to the increased water use and the additional stress it places on the warm-season grass.  
• These grasses tend to compete with your warm season grass for nutrients in the soil.  This weakens the warm season grass (St. Augustine, bermuda, etc.) which may then require fertilizing and additional watering.

Thinking of switching to a rock yard to reduce water use?  Before you do, read this blog we wrote.  

• Rocks generate heat.  They absorb the sun’s radiation and hold onto it far into the night.  Rocks can reach 140-170 degrees in summer!
• Rocks increase stormwater runoff.  Rocks are impermeable, and in large areas, this means water flows off the rock into streets,  potentially causing flooding, rather than soaking into the ground (where we want it). 
• Rocks increase soil erosion.  Since rocks don’t have roots, they will not hold down the soil during rainstorms.  This increases erosion on your precious soils.
• They offer no nutritional value.  Rocks aren’t the food source of any bird, plant, or insect.  They also don’t provide any carbon, the gasoline of the soil ecosystem.  Without carbon, those important soil fauna will suffer and die.
• Rocks are not maintenance free.  Rocks may still need to be maintained, have weed growth, and need to be cleaned from debris.

If you still choose to install rock, use it in shady areas, and as accents, rather than the whole area.

Soil is really the backbone of your yard.  It plays a huge role in survivability of your plants.  Healthy soil full of beneficial fungi, bacteria, and organisms is the goal!    

What type of soil do you have and how deep is it?  These are two main things you need to know about your yard, before irrigating or planting.  There’s no point in watering, if you don’t have any soil to hold the water in.

If the soil is too compacted to absorb water, aerate!  Loosing the soil, thru core aeration, allows space for water, air, and plant roots to penetrate.  This helps promote a healthy lawn.  Rebates are available for this service.

Get a soil test (see below) to determine if you really need to add any fertilizers to the yard.  Reducing chemical use outdoors helps protect water sources and beneficial insects.

• GardenVille–makes their own soil, mulch, and compost. Nearest location is Georgetown.
• Texas A&M AgriLife Extension provides research and expertise on soils, landscaping, and gardening among other topics.
  • Texas A&M AgriLife Extension soil testing lab.